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Feb. 11th, 2022 01:28 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
scrottiePlowed through the head book last night. Some key bits: The vinyl hose getting permeated is the most common cause of odors, absent other things. Special sanitation hose lasts longer before being permeated than spa hose, which should not be used, but gets permeated eventually. Waste should not be left in lines but pumped clear which depends a lot on how lines are run. Air can be pumped through instead of water depending on length/angle of waste line to clear the line but should be rinsed often. Rot smell concentrated in places where lines are enclosed is a give-away that it's time to replace lines (this seems to be the case). Anaerobic rot all smells more or less the same so cleaning all dank corners is necessary (figured that out myself but hadn't gotten to it). Recommends rinsing the holding tank over and over until it is clean at pump out (did some of that but trying a detergent method suggested online in favor of just rinsing over and over). Fresh air to the tank vented outside is important and even suggests two for cross ventilation (my vent line might be too long/small). Suggests those solar vent thingies which I'd been debating on aesthetics.
Fun to read just because of how well it was. It has lots of specifics, starting with standard hose sizes, lengths, installation requirements, etc, goes in to detail on how long different models of head will last and how often they need to be rebuilt, what was common in production when, comprehensive trouble shooting guides (my failed joker valve was previously preventing pumping clear, before I rebuilt). Lots of specific plumbing arrangements both for water intake to avoid rot in the lines there too (I removed that except plumbing from the sink to the head). A large appendix has exploded drawings and replacement parts lists for all popular models.
Cleaning under the forward berth and under the sink, dank areas I'd been avoiding dealing with, did a lot, I think, but I may have to employ a professional smeller to check my work if I can get around to replacing lines.
One nit was when I took out the fresh water intake thru-hull, I left the double action flush pump disconnected on the top, so that part of the system was open, and, as Peggie Hall describes, "concrete" had formed. Was debating replacing when I rebuilt that and it's vastly beyond her estimated service life, but she also confirms that it's a vastly better head than the $200 bottom tier ones. A quality new marine head starts at $800, which she dubbed "a bronze throne".
Fun to read just because of how well it was. It has lots of specifics, starting with standard hose sizes, lengths, installation requirements, etc, goes in to detail on how long different models of head will last and how often they need to be rebuilt, what was common in production when, comprehensive trouble shooting guides (my failed joker valve was previously preventing pumping clear, before I rebuilt). Lots of specific plumbing arrangements both for water intake to avoid rot in the lines there too (I removed that except plumbing from the sink to the head). A large appendix has exploded drawings and replacement parts lists for all popular models.
Cleaning under the forward berth and under the sink, dank areas I'd been avoiding dealing with, did a lot, I think, but I may have to employ a professional smeller to check my work if I can get around to replacing lines.
One nit was when I took out the fresh water intake thru-hull, I left the double action flush pump disconnected on the top, so that part of the system was open, and, as Peggie Hall describes, "concrete" had formed. Was debating replacing when I rebuilt that and it's vastly beyond her estimated service life, but she also confirms that it's a vastly better head than the $200 bottom tier ones. A quality new marine head starts at $800, which she dubbed "a bronze throne".
